Tire Valve Blog
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Bicycle Tire Valves allow riders to inflate their tires with air. According to bicycle expert Sheldon Brown, the three types of bicycle Tire Valvesare Schrader, Presta and Woods. Cycling writer Jobst Brandt says most current bicycle manufacturers produce Schrader and Presta valve tubes. Most bicycle valves attach permanently to inner tubes, but some newer tubeless bicycle tires use a special Presta valve temporarily attached to the wheel rim.

Cyclists call Schrader valves “American valves.” Automotive tire and plumbing applications in the U.S. commonly use Schrader valves. Sheldon Brown’s Bicycle Glossary recommends the use of a 21/64-inch drill bit to convert Presta-drilled rims to accept Schrader valves. In the U.S., you can fill Schrader valve tubes at gas stations and with many styles of air pumps. Most children’s bicycles and other less expensive bicycles use Schrader valve tubes.

Presta valves, or “French valves,” are skinnier than Schrader valves and use a locknut mechanism to retain air pressure. Presta valves require a Presta pump or a Presta valve adapter, which you can find at bike shops. Presta valve caps protect a tube from valve puncture during shipping, but Brown’s Bicycle Glossary says riders don’t need to use caps.

Woods valves, roughly the size of Schrader valves at the base, taper to the size of Presta valve locknuts. Once common in Asia and the British Isles, Woods valves rarely appear in the United States. Presta pumps work with Woods valves. The rubber interiors of Woods valves deteriorate over time so they no longer retain air. Some patch kits include short lengths of rubber tubing designed as replacement rubber interiors for Woods valves, according to Brown’s Bicycle Glossary.

A variety of control Valve Accessories are available to customize and enhance our standard product offering.

Designed for use with most of Pneumadyne’s pneumatic control valves, our rugged operators offer several actuation options to easily fit system requirements. Installing operators on standard push button valves provides several benefits including a greater tactile surface which reduces user fatigue and a consistent appearance when used in control panels. An assortment of colors is also available for function identification.

The combination of Pneumadyne’s control valves and Valve Accessories ensures the pneumatic functionality you need while providing the appearance you desire.

Many bike pumps have an adjustable nozzle that can accomodate either a Presta or a Schrader Valve . That way, you can fill up any type of bike tube.


Start with the pump in Presta valve mode. Presta valves are the skinnier of the two valve types.

Unscrew the top cap of the nozzle.

Tap the pump gently so that a flexible rubber tube and a hard plastic tube come out of the nozzle.

Flip the plastic piece upside-down so that the pointed end faces out of the nozzle. Then slide this piece back into the nozzle opening.

Flip the rubber piece so that the end with the larger donut hole faces up, and slide it into the nozzle on top of the plastic piece.

Screw the top cap back on and pump up a Schrader Valve.

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One of the most common problems with a tire is a leaking Tire Valve stem. It causes a very slow leak, but eventually the leaking tire valve stem needs to be replaced. It’s not a large job and one you can easily do at home with a minimum of equipment. However, be aware that the leaking Tire Valve stem is at fault first.

Step 1 – Checking the Leak

The first thing to do is to establish whether the leak in your tire is from the valve stem or a slow leak in the tire itself. To do this, remove the cover from the valve stem and set aside, being careful not to lose it. Take some soap water and spread it over the valve stem. Keep watching it. If it bubbles then you have a leak in the valve stem. If it doesn’t, the problem is in the tire so you should take it to a garage and have it plugged.

Step 2 – Removing the Stem

The tire valve stem can be removed and replaced. To begin you need to let all the air out of the tire. Press down on the stem and you’ll hear the air escaping. Keep the stem depressed until all the air has gone. Insert the valve stem replacement tool into the tire valve stem. There will be a slotted end that fits around the stem. When it’s properly seated, turn the tool in a counter clockwise direction. Keep going until you’ve unscrewed the stem and pull it out.

Step 3 – New Stem

Now you’re ready to insert the new stem. Be aware that the stems are a one size fits all part. You’ll need to purchase a stem that’s correct for your car so when buying have your tire size handy. Put the new stem in the valve and seat in centrally. Put the valve stem tool over it and begin to screw it in, turning clockwise until it’s tight in the valve. Be careful not to overtighten. Once it’s tight and seated fully, remove the valve stem tool.

Step 4 – Finishing

With the Tire Valve stem replaced you still need to re-inflate the tire. You can use a foot pump for this or one that plugs unto the cigarette lighter in your car. The latter is the much easier option; all you need to do it attach the unit to the tire, plug it into the cigarette lighter and switch on the engine.

Using a foot pedal takes a great deal longer and requires much more effort. Be prepared to spend at least 15 minutes pumping as you inflate the fire, and change legs several times to avoid becoming too tired. Once the tire looks as if it’s fully inflated, check the psi with a tire pressure gauge. The owner’s manual for your vehicle will give the correct pressure for both from and rear tires.

Due to many conditions, including weather, damage or just age, the valves on your tires can wear out and become cracked or brittle, causing the valves to not operate properly when you are putting air in the tire. If this happens, it is not difficult to replace the Tire Valve yourself. It can be done in about an hour.

Remove the tire from the rim by separating the seal where the edge of the tire meets the wheel. Use a small sledge hammer and tire changing tool, wedging the tire tool underneath the Tire Valve side of the rim and running it around the rim until the tire is loose.

Locate the tire valve on the inside of the rim by pushing the tire down and finding where the tire valve is inserted in the wheel on the inside of the rim.

Pull the tire valve out of the rim from the inside using pliers to remove the valve stem.

Place a bead of dish soap on the inside edge of the new tire valve where the valve will connect with the rim and insert the valve back into the rim from the inside.

Push the tire valve back into place using pliers to pull it through carefully until you hear the grommet of the valve snap into the rim. Check to verify the valve is securely attached to the rim.

Tie a tie-down strap around the diameter of the tire and tighten so the edge of the tire is pushed out toward rim, allowing it to hold air as it is being filled.

Attach the hose of a battery-operated air compressor to the new tire valve and begin inflating the tire. You may need to tighten the strap or adjust it to get the tire to begin filling up.

Remove the strap when the tire is beginning to fill up and then use a tire gauge to check the pressure. Continue filing the tire until it is set at the proper tire pressure.

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The Schrader valve (also called American valve) is a brand of pneumatic Tire Valve  used on virtually every motor vehicle in the world today. The Schrader company, for which it was named, was founded in 1844 by August Schrader. The original Schrader valve design was patented in the United States in 1893.
The Schrader valve consists of a valve stem into which a valve core is threaded, and is used on virtually all automobile tires and most wider rimmed bicycle tires. The valve core is a poppet valve assisted by a spring.

In addition to tube and tubeless tires, Schrader valves of varying diameters are used on many refrigeration and air conditioning systems to allow servicing, including recharging with refrigerant; by plumbers conducting leak-down pressure tests on pipe installations; as a bleeding and test port on the fuel rail of some fuel injected engines; and in the buoyancy compensator (BC) inflators of SCUBA systems (the inflation button pushes down on the valve, allowing pressurized gas to flow into the BC). Schrader valves are also widely used in high-pressure hydraulic systems on aircraft.[citation needed] Many domestic fire extinguishers use an internal valve identical to a Schrader valve, but with a lever on top to enable quick release of the pressurised content.

A Schrader valve consists of an externally threaded hollow cylindrical metal tube, typically of brass. In the center of the exterior end is a metal pin pointing along the axis of the tube; the pin’s end is approximately flush with the end of the valve body.
Generally, all Schrader valves used on tires have threads and bodies of a single standard size at the exterior end, so caps and tools generally are universal for the valves on all common applications. The core of the valve can be removed or tightened with a tool.
A new development is Schrader valve stems with integrated transmitters for tire-pressure monitoring systems (TPMS).

While the car market has grown immensely over the past five years, the vast majority of motorists still own, drive or maintain an older car, usually 5-7 years old, if not more. Common knowledge says that five-year-old cars tend to manifest most of the serious problems in car ownership. I hope to help you become more proactive and identify common problems, which can lead to more serious and costly ones down the road if left unattended.

1.) Flat-tires—tires, when inflated with ordinary oxygen can lose as much as 5 pounds of pressure in a week. It is crucial to check the tire pressure every time you gas up and monitor how much tire pressure you’ve lost. If your car feels or handles weird, funny or feels extra-harsh and you can really feel the big bumps on the road, the tire pressure is too low, or at least is less than ideal. If you are losing more than 5 pounds of tire pressure, chances are you have a slow puncture, like a small nail of sharp metal debris stuck between the tread, or the tire valve stem is old, worn and leaking. A simple twist-in tire sealant is a few hundred pesos at most, whereas the more expensive tire patch is about P500 and a quality tire valve stem is also about P500 to P700 pesos each, depending on brand.

All in all, having any one of these tasks performed/parts changed on your vehicle’s tires will be much less than replacing a complete tire and/or having a tow truck come over to rescue you, especially when these things happen at the worst possible time, such as manic rush hour traffic, or on long holidays such as Holy Week or Christmas. Having your car’s wheels aligned at a minimum of once a year not only allows your tires to last longer, get maximum fuel efficiency, and chassis stability and grip, it also gives professional mechanics a chance to inspect your car’s suspension, make sure nothing’s leaking and tighten everything up to ensure a rattle-free drive.

As a general rule, most modern cars and tires are designed to run slightly higher pressure for better fuel efficiency and performance as well as support today’s breed of heavier cars capable of higher levels of speed and grip. Gone are the days of inflating to sub-30 pounds of tire pressure. A good rule of thumb is to inflate to 33 psi cold, then adjust higher or lower from there. 33 psi is right smack in the middle of the recommended range of regular sedans, SUV’s and pick-ups and even high-performance cars. And keep your tire valve stem caps in place too. They prevent loss of pressure from old, worn and leaking tire valve stems when threaded on properly tight.

2.) Noisy belts—serpentine belts, fan belts, v-belts, accessories belts, are all different names for the same rubber bands that connect your engine ancillaries to one another, powered by the engine’s crankshaft. As the engine spins, it spins the water pump, oil pump, a/c compressor, alternator and power steering pumps together because they are connected by belts. If you notice that your car feels sluggish, your power steering feels heavier than what it used to be, your car’s electrical system feels weak (such as when you turn on all your electrical components and your headlights look dim or weak at idle in traffic), chances are your belts, and the associated bearings and tensioners that keep the belts tight, are old, loose or binding. Let’s not forget the screeching, whining shrieking noise associated with old, worn or binding rubber belts. Replace the belts immediately, and be amazed at how light-footed your car will perform. Change the bearings and tensioners too, as new belts won’t last long with old bearings and tensioners as they can be the cause of binding.

Left unattended, your battery can drain out faster and leave you stuck on the road due to poor charging, or the belts will break and/or tear off, again leaving you stranded on the road or, worse, your oil and water pumps seize, causing overheating due to lack of lubrication and cooling, or other serious engine damage, not only leaving you stranded on the road, but with a hefty repair bill coming soon after.

3.) Overheating—most people never really realize how effective their cooling systems are until subjected to intense traffic in the midday heat on a very hot and humid summer day. I’ve said it so many times, and I’ll say it again: Never ever fill your radiator and the rest of your cooling system with regular tap water as sediments and impurities in tap water can gather together and cause rust, creating more impurities in your cooling system. These impurities can clog your radiator’s tubes, the thermostat and thermostat housing, tear up old rubber seals and joints and cause pitting on the water pump’s vanes, which impede it from pumping water and coolant effectively into your engine, thereby causing even more damage.

If your car is five years old and has over 80,000 kilometers, replace the water pump, flush out all the coolant and replace with distilled water and high-quality coolant. Some shops like Caltex Dallas and DTM Motorsports offer Lavramon coolant flushing, which ensures that all impurities are flushed out of the engine as the Lavramon machine pumps water mixed with special chemicals designed to remove all coolant imperfections, impurities and sediments from your engine’s cooling channels.

Another often overlooked cause of overheating is the rubber hoses and the special jubilee clips that hold them in place. Rubber wears out, and the jubilee clips and clamps are like springs which loose tension over the years especially when subjected to intense heat from the engine bay and the elements. Small pinhole leaks, normally invisible to the naked eye, only start until there is intense pressure and temperature from the engine and pushes out from the old and worn rubber hoses and joints where clamps hold the hoses in place. You don’t see this normally because you’re inside the car with the hood closed. Change the rubber hoses, change the clips and clamps every five years at the most to ensure that you have absolutely no leaks at all.

Lastly, change your radiator cap once every three to five years, too. The spring tension on the radiator cap loses its strength over time, and the rubber under-seal underneath the radiator cap gets worn-out as well. And while you’re at it, have a soft hand brush and low-pressure water handy to wipe away clean the radiator and the a/c condenser. The dirtier these two heat exchangers are, the less effective they are to radiate heat as the dirt blocks and prevents incoming air to cool these down and radiate heat into the ambient and passing air.

Three simple things to look out for. Three simple tasks to do, which will cost no more than P5,000 thereabouts. And three things to help further ensure that you, your loved ones and your car will be safely on your way, every day.